Tips on how to perform do-it-yourself work at your community.
Q.My building has many wood-framed windows. The windows are in good condition, but several sills have rotted in places. I know it is best to replace those sills, but I can’t afford it right now. Can I repair the sills instead?
A. It would be best to replace the rotted sills—replacement is always the best option for rotted wood. However, if the rot is not too extensive they can be repaired. Ordinary wood fillers won’t hold up long in exposed outdoor conditions, so the best bet is to use one of the special products designed for rotted-wood repair. One is Minwax High Performance Wood Filler. This is a two-part filler that is mixed immediately before use. Start by cleaning out all the rotted wood to create a cavity of sound wood that will not continue rotting after the repair is made. If some weak wood cannot be removed, use Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener to harden the fibers; this can usually be applied with a brush.
When the cavity is ready, follow directions on the container to mix some of the wood filler. If the cavity is deep, it is best to fill it in several layers, letting each set before the next is applied. Smooth the final patch as carefully as possible. When it hardens, it can be chiseled, sanded or otherwise shaped with regular woodworking tools. The finished patch can then be primed and painted. A caution: These wood fillers have a very strong odor and should be mixed outdoors. Also, wear gloves and eye protection and observe other cautions on the container.
Another effective repair product is Abatron’s Wood-Epox; visit www.abatron.com and click on Wood Repair & Maintenance for information. When you can afford it, you can avoid future wood rot by having the outside wood on the windows capped or clad with a thin aluminum or vinyl skin. Capping will also greatly reduce maintenance by making periodic repainting unnecessary.
Q.How do I remove ivy from a stucco chimney without ruining the stucco?
A. You’ll need a sharp lopper (the long-handled tool used to prune moderate-sized branches from trees), a smaller, hand-held pruning tool and possibly a pry bar. Start by lopping off the ivy just above the ground. When the leaves start dying and access is easier, use the pruning tools to cut the ivy loose from the chimney. You might have to carefully pry some of it loose in order to gain access to the tendrils that attach the ivy to the stucco. Cut the ivy from all the tendrils. The next challenge is killing the tendrils. Some experts recommend brushing them briskly with a steel-bristled brush. I recommend a brass-bristled brush instead, since steel can leave small particles that can rust and stain. Another strategy, which requires great care to avoid starting a fire, is to burn off the tendrils with a propane torch (never use a torch near or on wood or other flammable materials). There will probably be some minor damage to the stucco; you can patch small chips or cracks with Quikrete Stucco Repair. This is an acrylic product that contains sand to match the texture of stucco. Repairs must be touched up with acrylic paint that matches the stucco.
Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at gaus17@aol.com.