TIPs for completing do-it-yourself maintenance and repair projects from syndicated columnist Gene Austin follow.
Q. I’m confused about which type of HVAC filters to use for forced-air furnaces and air-conditioners. I want to keep the air in our house as clean as possible. Help.
A.There are basically three types of replaceable filters for central heating and cooling units, although there are so many different sizes that sizing alone can be confusing. The basic types are fiberglass filters, which are least expensive, often costing only $1 or $2 each, and which do the poorest job of filtering dust and dirt, capturing only the largest particles in the air stream; pleated filters, which look something like an old-time washboard and capture much smaller particles because of their extra filter area and tighter construction (average price about $5 each); and electrostatic or high-efficiency filters, which can capture very small particles and cost the most (up to about $20 each).
Some dealers sell washable filters, which are most expensive and should be cleaned about every six months, following the directions supplied with the filter. Pleated filters are a good choice for most systems. However, if someone in the house has respiratory problems, electrostatic filters with their ability to capture tiny particles such as mold and pollen, can be the best buy.
The main danger of filters is failing to change them regularly. If the filter becomes overly clogged, it can put extra strain on the fan motor and also cause extra fuel consumption. Generally speaking, fiberglass filters should be changed once a month and pleated and electrostatic filters will last about three months. Before buying new filters, check the size of the existing filter and note the correct direction of the air flow, indicated by arrows on the rim of the filter. When I change a filter, I mark the date of insertion on the rim and check occasionally to see how much dirt is being trapped.
Q. Our hardwood floor has a polyurethane finish, but it always looks smeared, like there is a buildup on it. I have tried to clean it with vinegar and water, but that doesn’t work. Can you help?
A.First identify the type of finish on the floor. Pick an inconspicuous area and scrape off a little of the finish with a coin or knife. If the finish comes off in small, hard granules, it is polyurethane or a similar surface finish. If the scrapings are soft, it is probably a wax-oil finish. If the latter happens, rub your thumb over a small area, and if the finish smudges, it has been waxed. If you find wax, dig a little deeper into the finish to determine if there might be polyurethane under it.
If you are lucky, you will find only wood. Polyurethane floors should not be waxed, but someone might have waxed by mistake. This is a possibility because the smudges and buildup you describe sound like wax has been used. If the floor turns out to be made just of polyurethane, try cleaning it with Minwax Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
If it is just wax, remove the buildup with a commercial floor-wax remove, followed by buffing with a solvent-based cleaner-wax. In the worst case—a waxed poly floor, you need to remove the wax. Try a test area under a large piece of furniture to check the results before you attempt to do the entire floor. Use either a wax remover or scrub the test area with an ammonia solution (one-quarter cup of ammonia in one gallon of water).
Apply the solution with a well-wrung mop. Rinse with a clean mop and immediately dry with soft cloths. If you are not happy with the results on the test area, have an experienced floor refinisher check the floor and advise you.
Questions and comments? E-mail to Gene Austin at gaus17@aol.com.