Tips for completing do-it-yourself maintenance and repair projects from syndicated columnist Gene Austin follow.
Q.I have a painted brick fireplace that I want to redecorate with stucco. What is the best way to go about this? Should I first sandblast or use a paint remover?
A.You will need to remove the paint so the stucco will bond directly to the bricks. If you attempt to stucco the fireplace with the paint in place, there probably will be cracking and peeling as the paint deteriorates. Sandblasting would be faster, but it might damage the bricks and mortar. There are several paint removers that should do the job, but you should be sure to choose a paste-type or gel-type stripper that clings to the bricks. Cover or mask surfaces that could be damaged by the stripper or residue. Peel Away is a stripper that should work well. It is spread on the surface, then covered with paper. After allowing the stripper to work, the cover is peeled off, taking the stripper and presumably much of the paint with it. Visit
www.peelaway.com.
Strypeeze is another good product choice. You can extend the working time of this popular stripper by draping the fireplace with plastic sheets.
If the paint is very old, you must first check it for lead before doing anything. Test kits are sold at some home centers and on the Internet. When dealing with lead paint, visit
www.epa.gov/lead.
Q.Our 1955 building has a concrete porch that was resurfaced some years ago. It slopes toward the building and causes leakage problems. I have used concrete patch repeatedly and applied Drylok waterproofing paint, but it peels and breaks up in a year or so. Is there any solution short of breaking up the slab and pouring a new one?
A.A lot depends on the general condition of the slab. If it is basically in good condition and there is a concrete contractor available who does slabjacking (also called mudjacking), it might be possible to give the slab a proper slope away from the house without breaking it up. Slabjackers drill holes through the surface and pump in a special material that forms a new base. Slabjacking takes special equipment and not all concrete contractors are equipped to do it, but it is worth checking out.
Another option, if the slab is basically in good condition, is to add an overlay or new layer of concrete on top that will be properly sloped. The new layer is generally several inches thick.
Finally, Drylok waterproofer should not be used on floors. It is an excellent product if properly used on walls and other vertical surfaces.
Q.One of my toilets has a small leak around the base. Is there an easy way to fix this?
A.Try tightening the bolts on the base of the toilet slightly. Be careful not to over-tighten these bolts because applying too much pressure might crack the base. If that doesn’t stop the leak, replace the wax ring under the toilet. The wax ring seals the toilet to the drain-waste pipe. Unfortunately, replacing the ring means removing the toilet from the floor to gain access. The ring itself is inexpensive and can be purchased at a home center or hardware store. Also buy a new pair of bolts to secure the base.
When the toilet is removed, carefully examine the top of the drain-waste pipe for any damage. The flange on top of the pipe secures the hold-down bolts, and any damage to this flange should also be repaired. It is important to stop the leak as soon as possible. Delaying repair can lead to a rotting floor under the toilet and mean more complicated and expensive repairs.
Questions and comments should be e-mailed to Gene Austin at
gaus17@aol.com. Send regular mail for Gene Austin to 1730 Blue Bell Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422.