Following are tips for completing do-it-yourself maintenance and repair projects at your communities from syndicated columnist Gene Austin.
Q: Our house is 60 years old and has the original wood, double-hung windows. Several of the windows are drafty and loose and rattle when the wind blows. A couple of these won’t stay open unless they are propped with a stick. I can’t afford new windows now and wonder if there is a less expensive way to fix them. Can you help?
A: You should be able to correct the problem with replacement window channels. These aluminum channels are installed along the sides of the frames to provide new, snug tracks for the window sashes to slide up and down. The channels tighten the windows to eliminate looseness and rattling and the friction keeps the windows open in any position. Replacement channels are sold at some home centers, but the best bet now is to buy them direct from the manufacturer at
www.windowrenu.com. Prices start at $30 per window.
Replacement channels are installed from inside the house so there is no need to work from a ladder. The sashes (the frames containing the glass) must be removed from the window and any cords or weights cut loose. The sashes are then fitted into the new channels and the entire assembly is tilted into place. The Web site contains illustrated directions, frequently asked questions, prices and contact information.
Q: I want to give my house a complete interior painting, walls and ceilings. Is there a sprayer that a do-it-yourselfer can use indoors, or is a power roller the best way to go?
A: So-called airless paint sprayers, which use an electric motor to propel the paint, sometimes are used for interior painting. Airless sprayers can be rented at many tool-rental agencies or can be bought at home centers (about $80 and up). Another type of sprayer, called HVLP (high volume, low pressure) is also available; these are easier to control and have less overspray (stray paint) than airless sprayers. However, sprayers work best with thinned paints. Most latex wall paints and ceiling paints are relatively thick, providing good coverage and hiding power in a single coat, and they would need to be carefully thinned to work well in a sprayer. Spraying also requires a great deal of masking to prevent paint from getting where you don’t want it, and the inevitable cleaning of the equipment takes time.
Power rollers are somewhat more suited to indoor use, in my opinion, but also require careful cleaning if you take a long break or change paint colors or types. They can be rented or bought (about $100 and up for a good-quality machine).
Many painters, do-it-yourselfers and pros prefer to use conventional unpowered paint rollers, adding an extension handle for ceilings and high wall areas. These rollers give good control, and roller covers are cheap enough to be tossed in the trash when you are finished. They also allow you to use thick paints, like texture paints, if you want a special finish. I have tried sprayers and gussied-up rollers, but I always go back to an unpowered roller when I want to paint walls or ceilings.
Quick Tip: You can use liquid floor wax to restore a beautiful, polished finish to brick hearths and quarry-tile floors. You must first clean the bricks or tiles and it might require several coats to achieve a pleasing appearance. If satisfied with the end result, keep the wax and applicator nearby and add another coat of finish from time to time.
E-mail questions and comments to Gene Austin at doit861@aol.com.